Fashion

Dolce & Gabbana’s secret Milan fashion show proves the duo are still the masters of Italian tailoring

When the candle-lit Dolce & Gabbana Martini Bar was transformed into a make-shift catwalk late into a balmy Milanese night it left the fashion journalists who have descended for Milan Men’s Fashion Week with more than a little curiosity about what the endlessly mischievous Stefano and Domenico were up to, hosting a “secret show” on the eve of their spring summer 18 mainline unveiling.

Last minute unexpected preparations aside, this was no capricious whim; in this secret show the house demonstrated the full prowess and majesty of its tailoring, a notion that they acknowledge has been lost in the high octane, Break The internet spectacles of their millennial-centric catwalk shows.Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show

If the mainline show the following day – featuring reality TV show Made In Chelsea’s former star Spencer Matthews on the catwalk alongside Cindy Crawford’s son and Bill Clinton’s nephew – was a celebration of the power of the younger generation, this was that tween sensation’s elder brother; sophisticated, grown up and distinguished. Dolce & Gabbana’s essence is tailoring, which is why this collection from the Sartoria made-to-measure suiting arm of the business was a welcome return; the designers reminding us all of just how elegant a pin sharp suit can be.

Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show
CREDIT: DOLCE & GABBANA 

The Dolce man has always been darkly glamorous, as demonstrated in the subtle brocade of the tuxedos and the rich, jewel colours. Embroidered trims glinted, velvet slippers emitted a lustrous shine, but the stance was inherently masculine. The Italian duo also showcased their louche, seeping dressing gowns with plump shawl collars and piped pyjamas; behind-closed-doors luxury if you will.

Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show
CREDIT: DOLCE & GABBANA 

It was also refreshing, in this era of deconstructed suiting and sports luxe, to see something masculine and downright sexy: broad shoulders and nipped in waists, properly tailored trousers and a swagger as sultry as a Portofino evening. Reports of the death of Italian machismo have been greatly exaggerated.

No-one would deny Dolce & Gabbana their bells and whistles showstoppers, but this one-off show, in the most intimate of settings, was a reminder of that Dolce & Gabbana are also elder statesmen of gentlemanly Italian style.

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