Dolce & Gabbana’s secret Milan fashion show proves the duo are still the masters of Italian tailoring

When the candle-lit Dolce & Gabbana Martini Bar was transformed into a make-shift catwalk late into a balmy Milanese night it left the fashion journalists who have descended for Milan Men’s Fashion Week with more than a little curiosity about what the endlessly mischievous Stefano and Domenico were up to, hosting a “secret show” on the eve of their spring summer 18 mainline unveiling.

Last minute unexpected preparations aside, this was no capricious whim; in this secret show the house demonstrated the full prowess and majesty of its tailoring, a notion that they acknowledge has been lost in the high octane, Break The internet spectacles of their millennial-centric catwalk shows.Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show

If the mainline show the following day – featuring reality TV show Made In Chelsea’s former star Spencer Matthews on the catwalk alongside Cindy Crawford’s son and Bill Clinton’s nephew – was a celebration of the power of the younger generation, this was that tween sensation’s elder brother; sophisticated, grown up and distinguished. Dolce & Gabbana’s essence is tailoring, which is why this collection from the Sartoria made-to-measure suiting arm of the business was a welcome return; the designers reminding us all of just how elegant a pin sharp suit can be.

Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show

The Dolce man has always been darkly glamorous, as demonstrated in the subtle brocade of the tuxedos and the rich, jewel colours. Embroidered trims glinted, velvet slippers emitted a lustrous shine, but the stance was inherently masculine. The Italian duo also showcased their louche, seeping dressing gowns with plump shawl collars and piped pyjamas; behind-closed-doors luxury if you will.

Dolce & Gabbana SS18 tailoring secret show

It was also refreshing, in this era of deconstructed suiting and sports luxe, to see something masculine and downright sexy: broad shoulders and nipped in waists, properly tailored trousers and a swagger as sultry as a Portofino evening. Reports of the death of Italian machismo have been greatly exaggerated.

No-one would deny Dolce & Gabbana their bells and whistles showstoppers, but this one-off show, in the most intimate of settings, was a reminder of that Dolce & Gabbana are also elder statesmen of gentlemanly Italian style.

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